A masculine, vivacious space is the showcase for Laurent Tourondel's third "BLT" restaurant featuring Franco-American cuisine. Menu specials are scrawled on a blackboard. Everything is served à la carte, and prices are high, but so is the quality of every dish. Tourondel has brought his signature steaming-hot Gruyère popovers downtown from BLT Steak. They're light and buttery with an addictive texture. Although there are poultry, veal, and lamb dishes on the menu, from lemon-rosemary chicken to a lamb T-bone, steaks are the main event. The dry-aged USDA prime steaks are broiled at 1,700, some spread lightly with herb butter and offered with a choice of sauce (the béarnaise is perfection).
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