Standing on the bluff of Sugar Hill overlooking Jackie Robinson Park, outside 409 Edgecombe Avenue, you'd never guess that here resided such influential African-Americans as NAACP founder W.E.B. DuBois and Supreme Court Justice Thurgood Marshall, or that farther north at 555 Edgecombe, writers Langston Hughes and Zora Neale Hurston and jazz musicians Duke Ellington, Count Basie, and others lived and played (unless you catch the Sunday jazz concerts here from 4 to 6:30 PM in Apartment 3F; see www.parlorentertainment.com). Harlem's society hill from the 1920s to the 1950s is today another partly cleaned-up "evolving" neighborhood, on its way to regentrification. Walk over to Hamilton Heights for a better-preserved taste of the Harlem Renaissance years. If you're here after 9:30 PM, drop by the basement jazz club St. Nick's Pub (773 St. Nicholas Ave., near 148th St. 212/283-9728), a laid-back local fixture that's been around for ages. Bring some bills to stuff into the tip jar that circulates, grab a drink, and enjoy the late-night jam sessions.
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