Above the East River, this park, named for a German immigrant who was a prominent newspaper editor in the 19th century, is so tranquil you'd never guess you're directly above FDR Drive. Walk along the promenade, where you can take in views of the river and the Roosevelt Island Lighthouse across the way; to the north are Randalls and Wards islands and newly renamed RFK Bridge (aka the Triborough Bridge)—as well as the more immediate sight of locals pushing strollers, riding bikes, or exercising their dogs. If you're visiting with kids, there's a very worthwhile playground at the 84th Street end with climbing equipment, swings, and other diversions for toddlers and older children. If you enter the park at its 86th Street entrance or you're exiting there, you'll find yourself approaching the grounds of a Federal-style wood-frame house that belies the grandeur of its name—Gracie Mansion.
The official mayor's residence, Gracie Mansion (Carl Schurz Park, East End Ave. opposite 88th St., 10028. 212/570-4751. $7. 45-min guided tours by advance reservation only; Wed. 10-2. Subway: 4, 5, 6 to 86th St.) was built in 1799 by shipping merchant Archibald Gracie, with an enlargement in 1966. Tours of the highly impressive interior—which must be scheduled in advance and take place under limited hours— take you through its history and colorful rooms furnished over centuries and packed with American objets d'art. Nine mayors have lived here since it became the official residence in 1942, but New York City's current mayor, Michael Bloomberg, broke with tradition; he chose to stay in his own 79th Street town house, though he uses this house for meetings and functions. If you exit the park at 86th Street, cross East End Avenue for a stroll through Henderson Place, a miniature historic district of 24 connected Queen Anne-style houses in a dead end. The small redbrick houses, built in 1881 "for persons of moderate means," have turrets marking the corner of each block and symmetrical roof gables, pediments, parapets, chimneys, and dormer windows.
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