This spacious brasserie is a shrine to cheese, the passion of chef-owner Terrance Brennan. Though service can be spotty, gastronomes and business lunchers still flock here for the more than 150 cheeses—available for on-site sampling or retail sale—then stay to enjoy their selections with one of 160 wines by the glass. Hot fromage-imbued fare also is satisfying, with preparations like addictive gougère cheese puffs, onion soup gratiné, and several types of
fondue. For curd-adverse customers, steak frites or selections from the raw bar should satisfy.