Jimmy Bradley's formula for the perfect neighborhood eatery, which they mastered at the Red Cat in Chelsea, works like a charm in TriBeCa. The warm, woody room serves as a relaxed backdrop for the seasonal American food, like biscuits and gravy with clams and chorizo, and meaty Long Island duck breast with quark spaetzle and date-turnip puree. Desserts, including a not-too-sweet chocolate cake with mint ice cream and chocolate espresso flan, are at once accessible and sophisticated.
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