Though insiders who can get a table swear by Rao's on 114th in Manhattan, Zero Otto Nove chugs along as one of the best Italian restaurants north of 96th Street. The draw? A menu that is a nice balance between authentic Italian fare and good Italian-American classics. Try a wood-oven-fired pizza, perfectly chewy and loaded with buffalo mozzarella. The San Matteo, which adds broccoli rabe to the mix, is just as addictive as the plain Jane margherita. For those who don't feel like a trek to the Bronx, there's an outpost in Chelsea.