Don't ask for substitutions or sauce on the side at New York's most eccentric eatery, because Kenny Shopsin, owner and chef, may really toss you out or ban you for life; somehow the attitude is part of the appeal here. Though the eclectic menu runs to literally hundreds of items—from pumpkin pancakes to chilaquiles, and from chili cheeseburgers to lamb-curry soups—even the strangest foods conjured up in his tight diner kitchen taste pretty great. The mac 'n' cheese pancakes have loyal followers (they're even better with hot sauce). The space in the Essex market is tiny, so expect to wait. Parties of more than four aren't accepted.