Less formal than Chef Michael White's other renowned Italian restaurants (like Marea in Midtown West), the atmosphere at Osteria Morini is lively and upbeat, with communal tables at the center and a rock 'n' roll soundtrack. The food nevertheless steals the show. Start with a selection of cheeses and cured meats, then move on to hearty pastas—a lusty ragù Bolognese or garganelli with prosciutto and truffle butter, for example—and main courses like oven-baked polenta accompanied by either sausage or mushrooms. Waits can be long, so try to come early or late, or grab one of the few bar seats for an inventive cocktail or a glass of Italian wine. Brunch is served weekends.