New Yorkers change hangouts faster than they can press speed-dial, but this spot has managed to maintain its quality and flair for more than 30 years. It still feels like the spot in TriBeCa to get a late-night bite. The neo–Art Deco room is still packed nightly with revelers, and the pleasant service and well-chosen wine list are always in style. The bistro-menu highlights include frisée aux lardons (bacon-enhanced frisee salad) with poached farm egg,
grilled NY strip steak, and slow-cooked cod with baby leeks and fennel confit.