Fodor's Expert Review Mulino a Vino

The top toque at this West 14th Street spot is Davide Scabin, who has received all manner of acclaim for his avant-garde eatery in Italy, Combal.Zero. He tones things down a bit here, the fare balancing between weird and wonderful: the cacio a pepe doughnut, for example, is a pecorino-cheese-and-pepper-stuffed fried ball of dough, and it's revelatory. The Bonefire Lamb, slow roasted for hours, is fork tender. The wine list is long and Italian, and each can be had by the bottle or glass.