Chef Marc Forgione has restaurant success in his blood (his father was one of the New York food scene megastars with his 1980s restaurant, An American Place) but he more than holds his own at this neighborhood restaurant that continues to attract crowds for the ambitious, creative New American cuisine. The menu changes frequently but whatever you order will be bold, flavorful, and inventive without a hint of preciousness. Meat dishes are excellent and well-prepared but Forgione has a special way with seafood. His chili lobster appetizer, a take on a dish you'll find all over Asia, comes with Texas toast for mopping up the spicy, buttery sauce. Tartare (perhaps kingfish, hamachi, or salmon, depending on the day) is accented with avocado in a pool of sweet, soy-lashed sauce.