Inside Dovetail, chef-owner John Fraser's subdued town house and restaurant, cream-color walls and maple panels create a warm, soothing atmosphere. The menu, which changes daily based on seasonal and available ingredients, features refined but hearty dishes. Seek solace from winter temperatures with the earthy gnocchi topped with matsutake mushrooms, poppy seeds, and lemon. Tender lamb is heightened by potatoes, artichokes, and olives. The savory feast continues with pastry chef Michal Shelkowitz's Earl Grey pumpkin cake with lemon curd and cinnamon-toast ice cream.