Fodor's Expert Review dell'anima

Lines still snake out the door of this neighborhood favorite, so it's a good idea to make a reservation. Once you're in, check out the open kitchen, where the stylish crowd converges to watch chefs prepare authentic Italian dishes with a modern twist. Starters might include sweetbreads, bone marrow, or charred octopus with chorizo, while traditional first courses like pasta alla carbonara with speck (smoked and cured pork), egg, and pecorino are impeccable. The signature pollo al diavolo (spicy chicken) is seared with enough smoke and heat for all seasons. Anfora, their wine bar next door, is good for an after-dinner drink, if you want to linger in the area.