Rustic simplicity is the theme at this bustling West Village eatery, where many of the dishes come from the wood-burning oven in the dining room. Fish is always a good choice here, be it baked skate or pan-roasted cod, and meaty entrées like the pork chop or dry-aged sirloin are excellently cooked. Starters are more inventive; try the foie gras terrine wiht rhubard compote. Wood-planed floors and an arched cork ceiling envelop the busy 40-seat dining room; you can also dine at the bar. For a quieter meal, ask for a table in the glass-enclosed 15-seat atrium in back.