An institution on the North Fork since 1976, this casual yet lovely restaurant (definitely more than a snack bar) offers beautifully prepared authentic Greek specialties and fresh, local fish such as fluke—and the homemade lemonade is heavenly. The appetizer platter overflows with favorites like spinach pie, souvlaki (kebabs), and tzatziki (a yogurt-cucumber based sauce). Try the saganaki (broiled Greek cheese with lemon), for something different.
For dessert, try the hard-to-pronounce but delicious galaktobouriko (custard pie with phyllo pastry). It's open from 7 or 8 am and closes at 9, 9:30, or 10 pm, depending on the day and season. If you eat outside, you may want to bring bug spray.