Swaths of sheer fabric and vibrant murals romance the interior of this rustic trattoria—a paean to northern Italian food. Transplanted New Yorkers sip reds and whites from an extensive wine list. Sage-browned butter laces silky calves' liver, and an espresso demi-glace enlivens grilled hanger steak. The gnocchi pairs well with the lamb ragu. Vegetarians can choose from pasta dishes such as whole-wheat fusilli primavera.