Utica's Italian community has gathered for years at Delmonico's, which bills itself as a steak house but really dishes up some of the region's most authentic Italian food. For an appetizer, try some Utica greens—sturdy greens cooked with olive oil, hot and sweet peppers, ham, and cheese. Rachel Ray did, and loved them so much she devoted a show to them. If you're not too full from the huge portions, sample the chicken Sinatra, which is simmered with hot peppers, mozzarella, and mushrooms. A waitress in pinstripes and a fedora will bring your food and offer you a selection from a long and tasty wine list.
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