At this bastion of high cuisine, the complex dishes range from New Mexico lamb chops with panfried red potato cakes, candied shallots, and hot mustard–chile-mint sauces to mesquite-grilled Maine lobster tails over angel hair pasta, served with a creamy garlic-chile sauce. Chef Eric Di Stefano's peppery elk tenderloin with apple-smoked bacon remains a perennial favorite. Desserts are artful and rich—note the chocolate hazelnut cake with blood-orange sauce and caramel
crème anglaise. Located in the Borrego House, a massive-walled adobe dating from 1756, the intimate, white dining rooms have beamed ceilings, wood floors, fireplaces, and cushioned bancos (banquettes). The restaurant is renowned for both its cuisine and its highly refined service. In summer you can dine under the front portal; in winter the bar with fireplace is inviting. For a less formal experience, dine in the dark, seductive bar—the cocktails are excellent.