A perennial favorite, this cheerful cubbyhole dishes up Nuevo Latino and occasional Asian specialties for breakfast, lunch, and dinner. Don't be discouraged by lines out front—it's worth the wait (reservations are available—and strongly recommended—for dinner only). The culinary muse behind it all is Katharine Kagel, who champions organic, local ingredients, and whose expert kitchen staff produces mouthwatering breakfast and lunch specialties like the breakfast relleno
(a big, cheese-stuffed chile with eggs and a smoky tomato salsa served with beans and tortillas), huevos motuleños (eggs in a tangy tomatillo salsa with black beans and fried bananas), and the sublime grilled free-range chicken sandwich. Dinner is a more formal, though still friendly and easygoing, affair: the double lamb chop with pomegranate-molasses glaze is a pleasure; the starter of Vietnamase flash-sautéed scallops on a salad of jicame, grapefruit, and purple cabbage is a revelation. Mexican folk art, colorful tiles, and murals by Oaxacan artist Leovigildo Martinez create a festive atmosphere. Try the chummy communal table, or go late morning or after 1:30 pm to (hopefully) avoid the crush.