Talented chef Nellie Maltezos earns kudos for her truly stellar seasonal northern Italian fare. Gastronomic treats such as fried squash blossoms and baby artichokes with salsa verde (green salsa) and griddled Montasio (a mild, nutty cow's-milk cheese), and taglierini (ribbon pasta) with shaved summer truffles astound. The cozy dining room occupies a late-19th-century Territorial-style house a few blocks from the Plaza; dining on the front porch is a treat
in the summer when the fragrant flower garden is in bloom. The wine list is extensive and meticulously selected. The caveat (and it's a big one): widespread complaints about the arrogant management persist, particularly with regard to the extremely rigid no-scent and no-cell-phone policies. If you or anyone in your party has the slightest hint of a scent, you will be escorted out of the restaurant.