Walk into Chef Masa's tiny restaurant, and you'll be leaving the Southwest far behind you. A former chef at Shohko, Masa prepares masterful, reasonably priced sushi with an emphasis on unusual combinations. Try the softshell crab tempura roll, or the superb toro nigiri (fatty tuna). A real standout is the tantalizing Tokyo roll, with perfectly oily yellowtail, and minced green onion, then topped with luscious pink tuna, pickled daikon, and avocado. There's a very good sake selection, with a more limited selection of beer. Sushi Land is a noodle shop too, but sushi is the raison d'être here. The atmosphere is casual, with dark-wood tables, orange walls and Japanese prints.