Nob Hill trendsetters have long gathered at this informal art deco eatery to experience well-chosen Italian wines and first-rate pasta, seafood, and grills. Most of the multilevel dining area looks onto the lively bar and an open kitchen. Best bets include roasted wild salmon with warm spinach and bacon salad, and grilled double pork chops with pear-cherry conserves, Gorgonzola-mashed potatoes, and sautéed radicchio. The homemade desserts are mighty fine, among them lemon-goat cheese cheesecake with fresh berry compote.
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