An airy, high-ceiling dining room with a semi-circular central wine bar and modern lighting, this stylish restaurant sits amid pawn shops and bail bond outposts on a quiet, unprepossessing side street downtown. But once inside, you'll find a thoroughly sophisticated, colorful space serving memorable, modern renditions of classic American fare, such as fried chicken and meat loaf. The starters are especially notable, including Japanese-style fried rock shrimp with orange habañero sauce, and bruschetta topped with honey-cured ham and Brie. Banana-stuffed brioche French toast is a favorite at breakfast and Saturday brunch. More than 30 wines by the glass are served.
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