America's first seaside resort doesn't readily embrace change, and that's a good thing. Visitors explore the Victorian gingerbread buildings of the historic district on bicycle, carriage, and trolley bus. They sleep amid floral-print wallpaper, on four-poster beds, in homes formerly owned by bluebloods of the 19th century. They dine and drink where U.S. presidents once did. And when flocks of migrating birds arrive at the
same time every spring and autumn, they put the binoculars to their eyes and see yet another thing that has enticed beach pilgrims for over two hundred years.