With delightfully seasoned dishes, there's no need for salt and pepper shakers here; in fact, there aren't any. The creative before-dinner palate cleanser-a "deconstructed Bloody Mary" of spicy tomato sorbet, pureed celery, and vodka gelee-sets the tone. The dishes-bigger than appetizers but smaller than entrées-are meant to be shared and include delights such as charred octopus salad, steak frites, and the "Ultimate" pizza. (The toppings include lobster and truffles.) The Moroccan furnishings are designed to give guests the feel of an ancient public bathhouse, so the music-including trance and hip-hop- may seem out-of-place to those not intent on visiting the adjoining nightclub (of the same name) after dining.
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