Just inside the front door of Chef Mario Batali's newest restaurant, a giant bronze steer attests to the primary offering: beef. (Veal, lamb, and pork share the menu.) The steaks are dry-aged, grilled until the crust is slightly charred, then carved tableside by knowledgeable, attentive servers. A favorite appetizer is the steak tartare, egg-free and chopped to order. Others include fresh pastas served with everything from duck to Dungeness crab. The fine wines are complimented by an equally-impressive list of other spirits, including beers, bourbons, and rums. When the bread arrives, be sure to try the lardo, a savory spread made from pork fat, ginger, allspice, and rosemary.
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