The explosion of new chain restaurants in suburban neighborhoods makes it easy to forget the charms of the first Las Vegas restaurant to bring a chef's touch to Mexican food. You can get bountiful plates of enchiladas and burritos, but more rewarding are the daily specials and fish dishes, such as orange roughy cooked four ways (including with the ultrahot salsa de arbol), or the banderilla de camarones (shrimp grilled in garlic, lemon, and spicy salsa). Stucco, fake plants, and tile awnings over rows of booths vaguely suggest an outdoor Mexican plaza, though in an endearing—if somewhat garish—mom-and-pop way.
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