Head to the Palms' new Fantasy Tower (which opened in 2006) to try out this see-and-be-seen Italian restaurant with vaulted ceilings, classical statuary, and ornately upholstered armchairs—there's an intentionally gaudy look about the place, and that's part of its allure among high rollers and poseurs. The modern Italian food, however, is seriously good and surprisingly restrained: thin-crust pizzettes topped with lobster, ricotta, and arugula; grilled octopus with lemon and rosemary; rare-seared tuna caponata in Barolo wine. The porterhouse steak topped with a lobster tail is a particularly memorable treat.
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