Fodor's Expert Review NOVE Italiano

Head to the Palms's opulent Fantasy Tower to try out this see-and-be-seen Italian restaurant with an excellent view of the Strip, vaulted ceilings, classical statuary, and ornately upholstered armchairs. There's an intentionally gaudy look about the place, and that's part of its allure among high rollers and poseurs. The modern Italian food, however, is seriously good and surprisingly restrained: heirloom-tomato caprese and candy-striped beet carpaccio salads, octopus and oysters, daily risotto and gnocchi, and veal Nove, which is scaloppine with prosciutto, arugula, and lemon. The 24-ounce bone-in rib-eye steak with sautéed Serrano peppers is a particularly memorable treat.