Fodor's Expert Review Mantra Masala

Indian-food purists insist it's no big deal to drive 15 minutes from the Strip to the back of a bland strip mall for exceptionally authentic cuisine. While meat and fish make notable appearances, a dozen vegetarian dishes are on the menu as well. The sparely lighted space comprises a pair of rooms sprinkled with exotic paintings, dark wood, and richly upholstered booths. Sitar music twangs softly overhead. Enter the dining room and smell the aroma of lamb chunks simmering in a rich cardamom sauce—a signature dish. The usual tandoori and biryani favorites are here, plus offerings such as Goa prawn curry (cooked in a tamarind-coconut sauce). The house makes its own yogurt and cheese and eschews preservatives and processed foods, emphasizing a healthful approach.