This elegant backcountry lodge, built in 1913 by the Great Northern Railway, is accessible only by a steep, 6 1/2-mi trail with a 3,300-foot vertical rise. Either hike in or arrive on horseback. Guest rooms have no electricity, heat, or running water, but who cares when the view includes Glacier's Gunsight Peak, Mt. Edwards, Lake McDonald, and mountain goats in wildflowers. Look for the "horse and rider" in the mountains on the way up to the chalet. Informal meals, such as turkey with the trimmings, are simple yet filling. Note that the reservations office is closed September and October. Pros: Great meals are a welcome reward after a long hike; there are a lot of day hikes from the chalet; the nicest quarter-million-dollar composting toilet you'll ever see. Cons: Be prepared for a tough climb on the hike up to Sperry; it's best to use a horse, but you have to be dropped off.
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