This loftlike restaurant with a harborside deck has enjoyed legendary status since the mid-1970s, when chef Marion Morash used to get a helping hand from culinary buddy Julia Child. The young couple now in command—Gabriel Frasca and Amanda Lydon—were fast-rising stars on the Boston restaurant scene, but their approach here is the antithesis of flashy; if anything, they have lent this venerable institution a more barefoot air, appropriate to the place and season. Hurricane
lamps lend a soft glow to well-spaced tables lined with butcher paper, and dish towels serve as napkins. Intense champions of local crops and catches, the chefs concoct stellar dishes like oysters with Meyer lemon granita, and line-caught halibut with garlic-chive spaetzle.