This loftlike restaurant with harborside deck has enjoyed legendary status since the mid-'70s, when chef Marion Morash used to get a helping hand from culinary buddy Julia Child. The young couple who took over in 2006 -- Gabriel Frasca and Amanda Lydon -- were fast-rising stars on the Boston restaurant scene, but their approach here is the antithesis of flashy. If anything, they have lent this venerable institution a more barefoot air, appropriate to the place and season -- hurricane lamps lend a soft glow to well-spaced tables lined with butcher paper; dish towels serve as napkins. Intense champions of local produce and catches, Frasca and Lydon concoct stellar dishes like lobster-stuffed zucchini flowers with saffron-tomato vinaigrette, and line-caught swordfish in a vaguely Moroccan melange of golden raisins, pine nuts, and mint. Everything from cuisine to service entrances, and the price -- for Nantucket -- is right. If you'd like a preview, try the less costly café menu at the adjoining bar -- provided you can get in.
Posted by monrutu from New York on 8/19/08
I'm not sure what all of the fuss is about as there are many other restaurants on the island that are far easier to get into and that have better food. We had an excellent de-shelled lobster but the other plates fell very flat. Every plate had flaws; wrong vegetable pairings, sauces and textures. The wine list is drowning in overpriced Burgundy.
It seems to be popular for the deck view overlooking the port (special request). From my experience most people don't seem to spend much time looking at their plates.
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