Fodor's Expert Review Straight Wharf

This loft-like restaurant with a harborside deck has enjoyed legendary status since the mid-1970s; these days, the focus is on re-interpreting summer classics that highlight local produce and fresh seafood. The two-course dinner menu ($78), served in the dining room, features such delectables as iced Nantucket oysters, perhaps followed by slow-poached salmon with a Brussels sprout and baby kale caesar. The bar grill offers a short, well-curated a la carte menu. (Moroccan-spiced eggplant "parm" is a favorite.) Hurricane lamps lend a soft glow to well-spaced tables; the vibe is best described as barefoot-chic. (But do wear shoes!)