Nantucket Restaurants

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Straight Wharf

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Straight Wharf Review

This loftlike restaurant with a harborside deck has enjoyed legendary status since the mid-1970s, when chef Marion Morash used to get a helping hand from culinary buddy Julia Child; the young couple now in command—Gabriel Frasca and Amanda Lydon—were fast-rising stars on the Boston restaurant scene, but their approach here is the antithesis of flashy and, if anything, they have lent this venerable institution a more-barefoot air, appropriate to the place and season: hurricane lamps lend a soft glow to well-spaced tables lined with butcher paper, and dish towels serve as napkins. Intense champions of local crops and catches, the chefs concoct stellar dishes like oysters with Meyer lemon granita, and line-caught halibut with garlic-chive spaetzle. Their style could be synopsized as simplicity that sings.

    Restaurant Details

  • Reservations essential.
  • Credit cards accepted.
  • Closed mid-Oct.--mid-May.
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    Overrated

    I'm not sure what all of the fuss is about as there are many other restaurants on the island that are far easier to get into and that have better food. We had an excellent de-shelled lobster but the other plates fell very flat. Every plate had flaws; wrong vegetable pairings, sauces and textures. The wine list is drowning in overpriced Burgundy.

    It seems to be popular for the deck view overlooking the port (special request). From my experience most people don't seem to spend much time looking at their plates.

    by monrutu, 8/19/08

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