Michael Brisson has been at the helm of this creative French kitchen for about a quarter of a century, yet his dedication to fresh, exquisitely prepared local food remains as fervent as ever. Changing with what's seasonally available, his menu many include sautéed Menemsha fluke served on a saffron risotto cake, or perhaps roasted Long Island duck breast and thigh with a toasted maple-cognac sauce. For lighter fare or an indulgence of fancy martinis, head to the bar with its sleek leather-backed chairs. The restaurant's location, in a former sea captain's home, adds warmth and intimacy to the dining rooms. There's also a terrace for alfresco dining.