Northern Italian and Mediterranean cooking distinguishes this classy, popular place. The staff is friendly and the setting is both intimate and festive, if a bit crowded. The zuppa de pesce, a medley of seafood sautéed in olive oil and garlic and finished in a white-wine, herb-and-tomato broth, is a specialty. Make sure to come hungry—the portions here are huge—and expect a long wait during prime hours in season. Use the call-ahead wait list to get a jump on the line.