At the Baseball Hall of Fame in Cooperstown, New York, you can find a poster announcing a showdown between archrivals Sandwich and Barnstable. The date? July 4, 1885. In the 120-plus years since that day, the Cape's ball-playing tradition has continued unabated. To see a game on the Cape today is to come into contact with baseball's roots—you'll remember why you love the sport.
As they have since the 1950s, top-ranked college baseball players from around the country descend on the Cape when school lets out, just in time to begin the season in mid-June. Each player joins one of the league's 10 teams, each based in a different town: the Bourne Braves, Wareham Gatemen, Falmouth Commodores, Cotuit Kettleers, Hyannis Mets, Dennis-Yarmouth Red Sox, Harwich Mariners, Brewster Whitecaps, Chatham Athletics (A's), and the Orleans Cardinals.
Players lodge with local families and work day jobs cutting lawns, painting houses, or giving baseball clinics in town parks. In the evening, though, their lives are given over to baseball.
The Cape League's motto is "Where the Stars of Tomorrow Shine Tonight." By latest count, one of every eight active major-league ballplayers spent a summer in the Cape League on the way up. You could build an all-star roster with names such as Nomar Garciaparra, Frank Thomas, Jeff Bagwell, Todd Helton, and Barry Zito.
To enshrine these heroes past, the Cape League inducted the first members into its Hall of Fame at the Heritage Museums & Gardens in Sandwich in January 2001. Among the 12 players honored were Thurman Munson, Mike Flanagan, Jeff Reardon, Mo Vaughn, and Frank Thomas.
Yet as good as the baseball is—you'll often see major-league scouts at a game—another great reason to come out to the ballpark is.. the ballpark. Chatham's Veterans Field is the Cape's Monster Park at Candlestick Point: much like the San Francisco park, fog tends to engulf the games here. Orleans's Eldredge Park is a local favorite—immaculate, cozy, and comfortable. Some parks have bleachers; in others, it's up to you to bring your own chair or blanket and stretch out behind a dugout or baseline. Children are free to roam and can even try for foul balls—which they are, however, asked to return because, after all, balls don't grow on trees. When hunger hits, the ice-cream truck and hot-dog stand are never far away.
Games start at either 5 or 7, depending on whether the field has lights; occasionally there are afternoon games. Each team plays 44 games in a season, so finding one is rarely a problem (www.capecodbaseball.org has information). And, best of all, they're always free. The Cape's baseball scene is so American, the ambience so relaxed and refreshing, it's tempting to invoke the old Field of Dreams analogy. But the league needs no Hollywood comparison. This is the real thing.