The chef of this popular Cambodian-French fusion house, Longtaine de Monteiro, learned to manage a Cambodian kitchen as the wife of a diplomat, and for a time ran a restaurant in Provence. The common element in both cuisines (which are listed separately on the menu) is garlic, from appetizers such as moules (mussels) swimming in garlic-infused butter to superb Cambodian spring rolls, delicate salads, and a red curry of surpassingly fresh flavor. Vegetarians and
diners suffering food allergies are easily accommodated. Equally important in this parking-challenged city: the restaurant has a large parking lot in the back (park anywhere at night; use "Elephant Walk" spaces during weekday lunch).