Owner-chef-author Chris Schlesinger built his national reputation on grilled foods and red-hot condiments. The Texas style beef brisket and North Carolina shredded pork are still here, but this restaurant has made an extraordinary play to establish itself in the front ranks of fish restaurants. Spices and condiments are more restrained, and Schlesinger has compiled a wine list bold and flavorful enough to match the highly spiced food. The dining space is completely informal. In addition to Saturday lunch, weekends include a killer Sunday brunch (complete with cornbread-crusted French toast and a do-it-yourself Bloody Mary bar).