Quiet and old-fashioned is the m.o. at this antiques-laden inn, which is in walking distance from Cleveland Circle. The Bertram was built in 1907 as a wedding present for a wealthy merchant's daughter. The building's extensive renovation reflects its original Victorian style, from the wood paneling and marble fireplace to the antique furniture and fixtures about the house. Room 3 is a favorite, with a four-poster bed, Oriental rug, cherry paneling, and working fireplace. Sound ho-hum? Hear this: Some rooms have ultradeluxe (and super-expensive) Duxiana mattresses, worth the trip alone.