Set in the old Besse-Clark Department Store on revitalized North Street, Spice is agleam with hipness. Jeans-and-tees types and glammed-up theatergoers bound for a show at the Colonial seem equally merry here. Exposed beams and light fixtures wrapped with white sheets (for acoustics, and "to make women look beautiful," according to co-owner Joyce Bernstein) give diners something to admire while they wait for Chef Douglas Luf's food. Then, the real admiration begins, thanks to Luf's winning ways with everything from wild-mushroom Toad in a Hole (a poached egg cooked in brioche with wild mushrooms) to maple-smoked duck breast with sweet-potato-apple hash. Even the ubiquitous hanger steak is better than average, and boosted by terrific hand-cut fries. Desserts go retro: think chocolate-cashew caramel corn and root-beer floats.
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