The area's German roots may have you hankering for schnitzel, knockwurst, or a cold Oktoberfest beer. If so, head to Schmarkerl Stube. Waitresses dressed in traditional dirndls (recall those St. Pauli Girl beer commercials?) carry heaping plates of homemade sausages, veal and noodles, and sweet and sour beef with dumplings. The house favorite Knusperige Schweinshaxe (marinated pork shank with sauerkraut, apple-flavored red cabbage, and homemade Bavarian bread dumplings) must be ordered 24 hours in advance so that the pork has ample time to marinate. Intricate wood carvings and red-and-white checked tablecloths complete the theme.