One of Maine's best chefs, Sam Hayward, opened this restaurant in a renovated warehouse on the edge of the Old Port in 1996. The menu changes daily to reflect the freshest ingredients from Maine's farms and waters. Every copper-top table in the main dining room has a view of the enormous brick oven and soapstone hearth that anchor the open kitchen, where sous-chefs seem to dance as they create such dishes as turnspit-roasted dry-rubbed pork loin, wood-grilled Maine island lamb chop with sun-root puree, and Maine mussels oven roasted in garlic and almond butter. Desserts include artisanal cheeses. In July or August, book two months in advance; otherwise, a week is usually fine. Last-minute planners take heart: a third of the tables are reserved for walk-ins.