Isle au Haut thrusts its steeply ridged back out of the sea south of Stonington. French explorer Samuel D. Champlain discovered Isle au Haut—or "High Island"—in 1604, but heaps of shells suggest that native populations lived on or visited the island prior to his arrival. The island is accessible only by mail boat, but the 45-minute journey is well worth the effort. Acadia National Park extends to cover part of the island, with miles of trails, and the boat will drop visitors off there in peak season. The island has some seasonal rentals but no inns. With only three stores, you wouldn’t think folks would come here to shop, but some do, as the island is home to Black Dinah Chocolatiers (207/335–5010 www.blackdinahchocolatiers.com), which makes artful high-end chocolates and has a small café.
For me, it was Borealis or bust--or both.More