This diminutive bistro, set back from the street, can be hard to find amid the neighboring bars and casual eateries. Inside, the staff greets you with more enthusiasm than polish, but it only takes a minute to realize most customers are regulars, and by the first course you'll understand why they return. Chef Ray Gruezke turns out plates like scallops with cauliflower and sour cream whipped potatoes or seared drum with mussels and lardons with masterful technique. Even
earthier dishes, such as a simple roast chicken with baked mac and cheese, are more robust than rustic.