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It's a mystery why New Orleans doesn't have more restaurants like Borgne. Overseen by celebrity-chef John Besh and former Galatoire's chef Brian Landry, it takes rustic Louisiana seafood dishes and adds a touch of city sophistication. Shrimp is served over white beans, a seafood-stuffed flounder comes with Meyer lemon butter, and the Gulf fish in a bag is accompanied by onions, fennel, and crab fat. Named after Lake Borgne in eastern Louisiana, the restaurant honors that area's many Spanish settlers with paella, empanadas, and goat cheese with green "mojo" sauce. The one off note is the decor, which feels like a museum cafeteria furnished with stiff chairs and undersized tables.
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