This vine-covered neighborhood bistro doesn't have a sign, but that hasn't stopped the national food media from finding it. Lauded chef Sue Zemanick cooks with elegant confidence in a classic French style, but with surprising bursts of understated creativity, evidenced in dishes like seared tuna with peach salsa and fried plantains. At Gautreau's, even the simple roasted chicken satisfies, and everyone should indulge in the caramelized banana split at least once. An older crowd of well-dressed regulars monopolizes most of the tables in this dark, quiet space that once housed a pharmacy, but if you can get a reservation, you'll feel like you've gained admittance to an elite club.
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