Familiar Thai standbys—spring rolls, pad thai, chicken-and-coconut soup, and the like—get a new lease on life in the kitchen of chef-proprietor Siam Tiparwat. These expertly prepared traditional dishes are backed up by a slew of thoroughly original creations served in the crisp, simple dining room, which is enlivened by a mural depicting a Buddhist temple. Gently flavored green and red Thai curries, especially those with chicken or shrimp, are prepared with the instinctual talent of a Thai native, as are the firm yet tender dumplings filled with bits of scallop. The sautéed calamari in basil-red curry sauce is addictive.
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