Celebrity-chef Emeril Lagasse's urban-chic flagship restaurant is always jammed, so it's fortunate that the basket-weave-patterned wood ceiling muffles much of the clatter and chatter. The ambitious menu gives equal emphasis to Creole and modern American cooking—try the andouille-crusted drum fish or the barbecue shrimp, which is one one of the darkest, richest versions of that local specialty. Desserts, such as the renowned banana cream pie, verge on the gargantuan. Service is meticulous, and the wine list's depth and range mean that you shouldn't hesitate to ask your server for advice.
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