Chef Emeril Lagasse bought the century-old Delmonico restaurant in 1998 and converted it into a large, extravagant restaurant serving some of the most ambitious reinterpretations of classic Creole dishes in town. The atmosphere is lush, with high-ceiling dining spaces swathed in upholstered walls and superthick window fabrics, and the food is decadent. House-cured charcuterie is a reliable option, as are crab cakes, rabbit crepes, and sautéed fish meunière. Prime dry-aged
steaks with traditional sauces have emerged as a specialty in recent years, but the menu gets more ambitious by the month. Plush and polish are the bywords here, and the service is exemplary.