Understatement defines the mood at locally beloved Clancy's. The decor is neutral, with gray walls and a few ceiling fans above bentwood chairs and white linen cloths. The small bar is usually filled with regulars who know one another (and tourists who wish they were regulars). Most of the dishes are imaginative treatments of New Orleans favorites. Some specialties, like the fresh sautéed fish in cream sauce flavored with crawfish stock and herbs, are exceptional. Other signs of an inventive chef are the expertly fried oysters matched with warm Brie, and a peppermint-ice-cream pie. On more festive nights you may yearn for earplugs.
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