Occupying what used to be New Orleans's oldest music store, this Dickie Brennan stalwart is a convivial spot to try some of the more imaginative contemporary Creole dishes, such as crabmeat cheesecake, andouille-crusted fish, and pepper-crusted duck breast with foie gras. Desserts, especially the white-chocolate bread pudding and the house-made ice creams, are luscious. Drugstore-tile floors and stained cherrywood booths set the mood. The wraparound mezzanine is lined
with a large mural depicting the city's famous musicians, such as Louis Armstrong, Fats Domino, and Aaron Neville. The Parisian-style sidewalk seating encourages small plates, wine, and people-watching (though you can also order full meals outside). The Sunday jazz brunch is New Orleans all the way.